My grandma always had a dish of them—spherical gems wrapped in sparkly cellophane. I wanted them all, but I didn’t want to appear greedy, so I’d choose just one, red or white, never green or yellow, twist off the squeaky wrapper and pop it into my mouth. They were smooth on my tongue and rattled around against my teeth. That’s the thing about candy—it’s not just a taste, it’s an activity. I would hold those candies on my tongue, flip them around as if each turn might somehow yield more sugar. Candy brightens moments of children’s boredom and soothes the tension of the smoker who just quit cold turkey.
Always performing the “good child,” that dish of candy was a challenge for me. We never had candy at home. And so during the weeks I’d spend with Grandma, I’d constantly have that dish in the corner of my eye. I’d be thinking about when I could next sneak one without anyone noticing.
It’s like candy and old women go together. When I was four maybe, I was always climbing up the narrow concrete steps to Florence’s back door. She always had strips of candy buttons on hand, which is probably the cheapest candy ever invented. Pastel blobs of sugar dropped onto cheap paper that always remains just a little bit when you rip the candy off of it. In my four year old bravado, I had no shame knocking on her door and without preamble, asking, “Can I have some candy?”
When I was older, I’d ride my bike to Convenient after every dime I’d pocketed, where I would get Alexander the Grapes, Lemonheads, Boston Baked Beans, or, my favorite—Now & Laters. Ten individually wrapped squares of chewy tart waxy candy. Chocolate was too expensive. Even a plain Hershey bar was out of my price range.
But there were those kids who had enough money to buy Nerds. They would show them off and hide them at the same time, like a status symbol, the same way a fifty five year old man might wax his Porsche all day in the driveway, only to pull it into the garage without driving it anywhere. But for sure the Nerds would come out when they needed leverage: “I’ll give you some of my Nerds of you let me be on your team, but only the pink kind, okay?” I never had Nerds. Must be why I’m not so great at negotiation. I bet all the kids with Nerds are now wheeling heads of cattle, or they’re hedge fund managers or con-artists. Or real estate agents. Candy makes other people pay attention to us. Before we have beauty, strength, wealth, we have candy.
The first story I ever wrote was about candy. It began at a carnival, and as I entered the fun house, I fell through a trap door an spilled into a world entirely made from candy. The houses, roads. The chocolate river. This world was controlled by an evil witch who kidnapped little children and kept them there, haunted by all the sweets, but not allowed to eat them.
It was a Hansel and Gretel, meets Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz, meets Alice in Wonderland daydream, and so revealing that I’d let myself be dazzled by the candy but not eat it. In the end, I escaped this candy land, but what I should have written—what I really wanted was to live in that world without the witch, not escape from it to a less sweet world with equally restrictive parent. Maybe that’s what candy is … the anti-parent.
Candy is a lesson is self versus others. It’s public and private. It’s who you are when you’re alone and who you are in a crowd. Do you eat the whole bag of M&Ms or save half for later? Do you wish your friend would get her own, because you feel obligated to share otherwise? Candy forces us to reveal our inner workings to the world.
I’m a hoarder, I’ll admit it. Here’s one of my earliest memories to prove it. My friend Amy has two rolls of Sweet Tarts, and there are three of us: me, her and Melissa, her neighbor that always seems to have green boogers running out of her nose. Amy takes a whole roll for herself, and tells Melissa and me we have to share. I’m outraged. I declare that I’d rather go home than share, and I do. In fact, I stop being friends with Amy altogether over the Sweet Tart incident.
I still get worked up over candy and sweets. I hate it when Tony scarfs all the ice cream before I get any. Once, he proposed taking my newly purchased Girl Scout Cookies to share with friends. I looked him straight in the eye and growled, “These boxes aren’t even open yet! There’s no way in hell you’re taking my cookies!”
At six months pregnant, I can only imagine what it’s going to be like when my child discovers sweets. A battle of wills. An 18 year long game of subterfuge. My friend Gwen told me a story about her mother—how she would hide Almond Roca in her sewing kit and jewelry box, but Gwen and her brothers would always sniff it out and steal it. The disappointment her mother must have felt at opening her drawer and then finding her treasure gone. I imagine myself the same way, hiding M&Ms in the glove box, opening it up in a sacred moment of solitude. I’m anticipating eating the whole package, savoring each round chocolate one by one. But they’re gone.
Gwen’s mom might have smiled to herself, felt resigned to the fact that as a mother, nothing is truly her own. She’d see it as a illustration of the self-sacrifice of parenthood and feel good about that. But me? Is that what I’ll do? Or will I slam the car door and storm into the house stark raving mad demanding to know who ate my candy?
This morning, we are ordering breakfast at Autentica. My father-in-law points to something on the menu and asks the waitress, "Can I get this with potatoes instead of eggs?"
